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| Thunder River Drainage |
We managed an early start on day four, climbing out of Deer Creek and into Surprise Valley before the first direct rays of sunlight struck. The hike across the valley was pleasant, but constantly warming. We arrived at the intersection of the Deer Creek and Thunder River Trails well before noon. We placed our packs behind some boulders, took what we would need for the afternoon, and began a side trip to Thunder River.
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| Thunder River |
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| Crimson Monkeyflowers |
After roughly 0.5 miles of hiking through Surprise Valley and the wash known as Bonita Creek, we reached a saddle at which point the justifiably named Thunder River became audible and visible. The trail then descended steeply through Redwall limestone for 600 feet over the course of a half-mile or so. After this sharp drop, a 150-yard spur trail led to the base of the 120-foot waterfall formed by Thunder Spring. Thunder Spring, the source of Thunder River, gushes from a cave lodged above a Muav limestone cliff. The river itself is only 0.5 miles long but sustains a lush environment of shade-producing cottonwoods, mosses, ferns, and monkeyflowers.
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Donna at Thunder River |
We spent most of the day taking in Thunder River. It's a popular spot and day hiking rafters drifted in and out over the afternoon. I was told that it is possible to get into the cave that is the source of Thunder River, but the route wasn't apparent to me. Late in the afternoon, we decided to begin our return hike. The steep ascent to Surprise Valley went quickly but we felt the heat unlike any other day. We made it across the valley to our packs in what felt like an oven. I love hot days more than most, but I'd never felt anything like this and the dry, barren terrain of Surprise Valley accentuated the oven effect. The backcountry ranger told me beforehand that the 'Surprise' in the valley is often remembered as the extreme heat one encounters. Strapping on our packs, we began the ascent to the Esplanade.
After completing what was roughly one-third of the climb to the Esplanade, we had consumed most of the water we'd brought from Thunder River. The heat was so intense that we had to continually drink, I'd never experienced anything like it. We arrived at a shaded corner in the trail, found a large boulder, and rested until the sun had dropped below the cliffs that bound the Esplanade. We then continued our hike, now more challenging given the heat-induced fatigue. By the time we had reached the Esplanade and had set up camp, we had less water than before arriving at Thunder River. My idea had been to replenish our water supply at Thunder River, thereby avoiding the need to cache. Although this strategy may have worked well in a cooler part of the year, it left us with a water deficit on this trip. Nonetheless, it was a great day of hiking. The Grand Canyon is a majestic place and the forces that shape it are strong and can be harsh, there is no choice but to meet them on their terms.
Created on ... November 15, 2004