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Page
1 - The Language Page 2- The Region and the Mines This Page S
F Payer (1) Bio History
of McAdoo,PA (Danube Swabians) Links to the German settlers of Hungary June
Meyer's Recipes Julius
Payer
McAdoo,
PA City Links; But those of more interest are at the Historical Society Lehigh
Valley Railroad Central Railroad of New Jersey -- Route maps, terrain, history of Anthracite Railroading Reading RailroadMain railroad of the southern Anthracite. Large number of further links. Early Railroad Maps Pottsville Republican Newspaper of the County Seat of Schuylkill Co. Republican slant, (of course) and a number of broken links. Even more peculiar is the Hazleton Standard~Speaker newspaper website. MAPS: Local Area McAdoo Area Patch Town Map PA
Mining Geology - County Overlay See the local area up close by clicking on the next several Topographical map links. These show ruined mining tracts, small towns and some patch towns: Aerial Photographs of north Schuylkill County Towns. Schuylkill
County Topographical Map McAdoo
- Hazleton Topographical Map Spring
Mtn. NW:3D Terrain Spring
Mtn. NW: Magnified 3D Terrain Many
More Topo Maps of North Schuylkill Co.
MORE REGIONAL LINKS: Massacre
1897 Canals
and Railroads in the Mid-South Anthracite Coal Mining Archive Coal Speak The Coal Region vernacular, lexicon, slang, dialect, patois. Bulletin board, guest book, local recepies, some pictures, 'top 10 lists',and many other links. Shenandoah and South Anthracite oriented. Times-News Link From which comes the center picture at top of this page. Items on coal hole 'bootleggers'. The Lehigh Gorge Beautiful scenery, Whitewater activities. Old Railrod Route now become a State Park Molly Maguires From the Columbia County Pages Another Eckley site
A mine fire, still burning, created a ghost town here. Fine pictorial presentation by an 'offroaders' group. More Centralia Xydexx's web site. Also, tourist attractions of the South Anthracite: Ashland Mine Tunnel, etc. Shamokin and the Southwest Mid-Anthracite In addition to a large number of pictures and links, a good model railroading web site. Bald Mountain Childhood Tales of growing up in a Carpatho-Rusyn environment. Similar memories could probably be repeated thousands of times over by many in the Anthracite Region. Wilkes Barre & the North Anthracite The best Breaker pictures on the WWW. Hazleton, PA 'Can-Do'Resurrected commerce in the region. Mauch-Chunk/Jim Thorpe, PA (1). Historic. Asa Packer's (Lehigh University, LVRR), hometown. Mauch-Chunk/Jim Thorpe, PA (2). Lehigh
University Alma Mater #1. Similarly for the Lehigh Valley, and see the 'Moravian Putz'. Links at Bethlehem page .
THE PA DUTCH: Pennsylvania Dutch #1 Excellent! In addition, early PA history, French & Indian war, Berks & Lancaster counties, early Scotch-Irish. This site has been designed for IE; Some pages will not appear using Netscape. Pennsylvania Dutch #2 A few more links here. PA Dutch Welcome Center Touristy/Commercial Language (Slang)
Pennsylvania
Indians The
Susquehannock Schuylkill
County Chronicles Bad language of all nations.
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See many more maps in greater detail at the Map directory McAdoo, PA, northernmost coal town in Schuylkill county, was sometimes called the 'Only Wild-West Town East of the Mississippi' ... although Shenandoah, PA has prior claim on that rough and ready name. There's even a book by that title. When you get to the most Godforsaken and highest part of Interstate 81, up atop the Spring Mountain ridge where the boughs shake against the cold, where it looks like there's nothing around but sky, clouds and winter-blasted scrubby trees, you're near the home town, McAdoo, Pennsylvania. That tough and resilient landscape both perfectly mirrored and shaped the character of the people who emigrated to this land. Typical Spring Mountain Scenery Schuylkill County Towns and Townships, Census Data The Eastern Mid-Anthracite Region is shown here: The McAdoo-Hazleton locale patchtowns can be seen in: McAdoo was formed in 1896 from Klein Twp. See at: History of McAdoo,PA
An aerial photograph of the McAdoo-local area. McAdoo was not incorporated as a borough until 1896, the last village to incorporate in these parts. Before that it was called Sailor's Hill and Pleasant Hill. That whole highland of north Schuylkill County, adjacent to "The Great Swamp" (Poconos) to the east, was developed and exploited in a boomtown way, very much like that of the Wild West in just about the same time frame. It was hardly settled at the time of the Civil War and even until the discovery of coal it was a wild and remote region, desolate even of Indians, called St. Anthony's Wilderness, similar to the Western Frontier. More about St. Anthony's Wilderness' southwestern quarter. For an excellent description of the early towns and townships of the local area, circa 1880, see the text transcribed from Munsell's 'History of Schuylkill County', published in 1881. This transcription has been done by hardworking members of the US and PAGenWeb project. Pertaining links are listed directly below. The local incorporated villages and towns of the time were Summit Station, now called Lofty, Silverbrook, and Honeybrook, all of which can be found in the following:
Surrounding
Townships and Counties - Composite Map Schuylkill
County Topographical Map-via DeLorme Software Schuylkill
Co.US Census Data Schuylkill County, Timeline and Population PA
GenWeb McAdoo was a town of Catholic Churches, nine for a population of about 5000 in the 1950s. Here were represented most countries of Eastern Europe/Russia except for what is now Yugoslavia. The population has gone steadily downhill ever since the 1930s. Every other block had a church (the number of which was exceeded by at least two saloons). In January and February few landscapes were bleaker and colder and grayer than midwinter days on the high ridge of Spring Mountain. When the ice-storms blew in from the east, it looked like the study in gray, here, especially in the '50s before the stripped and mine-ruined trees started to regenerate Then when the wet, gray freezes were blown out eastward by the really frigid Canadian Expresses from the northwest, the clear brilliance and big, rolling cloud shadows were a celebration and icy epiphany.
McAdoo (as Honeybrook and Silverbrook) was tangentially involved in the Molly Maguires troubles of the 1860s and 1870s. It was heavily represented and a center of union organization in the labor/mineowner wars of the late 19th Century which directly led to the formation of the United Mine Workers Union. In Michael Novak's book, "The Guns of Lattimer", this small and still growing coal town plays almost as important a part as Lattimer itself and the nearby Hazleton that sent Sheriff Martin's posse to gun down the unarmed, striking coalminers in that bloody event. That stolid contingent of tough Slavic and Eastern European miners, just "off the boat", hardly able to speak their new American tongue gathered and organized themselves in McAdoo's Michalchik's Hall. Here they formed a bond with the existing generation of "American speaking" coalminers and by example stiffened the backbones of that erstwhile fractious and ineffective group. They marched to Lattimer peacefully and hopefully, naively believing that their two American Flags, guidons of a rabble, would protect them. It didn't. But here the way was prepared and the schedule set for the Great Anthracite Strike of several years hence. The beginning of that way was sanctified by the blood of the local Slavs, Hungarians and Italians shed at Lattimer. One account of the Lattimer Massacre in 1897 written by Jeff Cox of the Hazleton, PA Standard~Speaker begins this way: For the rest, see the Lattimer Massacre link at the left side of this page.
The 'Rezzie': The fenced off McAdoo borough reservoir watershed. Here were several score acres expensively fenced off, for what reason God only knows. This local distribution reservoir was fed by the much bigger #8 Dam west of Kelayres, also posted No Trespassing; We lived in mortal fear of The Watchman, (who never did show up). We snuck in all the time to pick stumpers and to fish the dam at night. The same action, (sneak & fish), for the Lofty Dam. There was a big sign there saying 'Keep Out, Mahanoy City Water Company'. UpdaMountain: To pick huckleberries, (we never called them blueberries). In McAdoo it was just a small rise to the high elevation of Spring Mountain, nearly 2000 feet above sea level. It could also mean the more remote, wild and high Delano Mountain, the highest point in the Middle Coal Field, located right above Mahanoy City. Delano was about five miles from town. We got there on Harman Scarpati's huckleberry truck. Three quarts of huckleberries, picked in a morning and sold to Harman at 30 cents a quart for his resale, got you into Mt. Laurel, the local chlorinated (real and authentic) swimming pool, with 40 cents to spare for a candy bar and some icecream, (1950s). Also see: View from the The Big Rock: Some called it the White Rock, the biggest rock outcrop of many atop Spring Mountain near McAdoo Heights. Elevation is about 2000 feet there. On a clear day you'll see thirty, forty miles in all directions, maybe more. Here see wave after rolling wave of silent blue Appalachians and swooping cloud shadows overall. It was about a half hour walk from the center of town, up the mountain. Spring Mountain Topographical Map The 'Gorilla': McAdoo version of Bare Ass Beach. Every locality had its own version of this "ol' swimmin' hole". A deep, cold water-filled-in Strippin Hole on the Silverbrook Mountain, a mile or two south of town. It was a good two hour hike up one mountain and down the other to get there on a hot summer's day. A deep, cold water-filled-in Strippin Hole Tresckow Waterfalls: A very pretty secluded waterfall off the south edge of Spring Mountain, about two miles from Tresckow. Reached only by a three mile hike from McAdoo, the water drops about 30 feet and goes on through a series of smaller cascades to feed Quakake Creek. Except for the sound of the water there's a deep quiet there, and when the red and gold leaves start coming down in September it's like a fairyland.The Hollow: Silverbrook Hollow, a deep ravine a mile to the south of McAdoo that widens out into the Quakake Valley. (Quake-ache). Quakake is an Indian name meaning Blue Water. The Hollow is the headwaters of Quakake Creek which flows into Black Creek and the Lehigh River some twenty miles downstream. It's the earliest, closest picnic-spot and last day of school outing hike. This place is actually the earliest recorded settlement in that location of north Schuylkill County. It was the site of a tavern/inn along the rutted post-road south of Spring Mountain, once called GreenFields, and can be found in the Munsell history. Greenfields
Area Camp Breezy: Where the headwaters of the Schuylkill River flow out of Spring Mountain near Ginthers and into Quakake/Tuscarora Valley. The stream is extremely cold and mixed with a reddish mine-acid selfer (sulfur) water stream coming down from Silverbrook at that starting point. Wolfe's: A remote, hidden, wooded spot, near Sheppton, long ago gone back to woods after the coal was mined out there. It's the headwaters of the Catawissa Creek, fed by many small streams off the western filigree of Green/Spring Mountain. Here two major drainage tunnels extracted water from all the western Audenreid Basin Glen Alden mines and those of the Green Mountain area. One tunnel has now caved in, but you can still enter the other; A fifty degree blast of cold air and flapping bats blow from that tunnel now even on hot summer days. Note, (Feb.2003): This area is now the province of a modern day 'off-roader's club' attempt to return the land to its earlier stripped out and half ruined character by converting it to a peculiar 'Adventure Park'. The Mile Hill: Actually it's about two miles. The steady steep grade of the Spring Mountain on Rte. 309 heading south to north from the Quakake Valley at Ginthers. They needed the pusher-engines on the coal trains starting from Quakake to come up the switchback grade to Lofty and the yards at Delano. The start of the Schuylkill River river flows out of Spring Mountain near the bottom of the hill and heads for Tamaqua, Reading and points south. Dead Man's Curve: Sharp curve in the road between McAdoo and Tresckow. Somebody was killed, run over there long ago and a cross marked the site up through the 50's. The cross/grave is no longer there. Might have been removed to make way for the cigar factory.
McAdoo
Map It was the home of my Hungarian immigrant grandparents. Ernö Marko and his wife, Mary, settled there in the early 1900s. He was an anthracite coal miner at the Beaver Brook works. It has changed little today except that all the old company houses are coated with vinyl or aluminum siding and most have storm windows. This put an end to the ice crystal filigree webwork seen on the windows on winter mornings. Beaver
Brook Breaker Beaver Brook is one of the oldest Mid-Anthracite Region coal towns. It had the name Frenchtown a long time ago. A building there served as a hospital during the American Civil War. Its cemetery was known then as St. Patrick's of Audenreid before that parish moved to McAdoo. In the mid 1940s part of cemetery caved into the Yorktown mine works which bounded the property at its south end. Grandmother Marko would not let us go see the uprooted skeletons. Beaver
Brook Cemetery
Hungarian grandmother Mary Marko's house was of two-family 'company house' model. Both the old, used-to-be company store run by Joe McNelis and Red Cann's saloon were directly nearby, right up the coaldirt alley. There was a heavy black-iron coal range always going strong winter and summer in the slanty-floor kitchen. The best food in the world was cooked on that stove! The Magyar, (Hungarian) Priest always knew when to pay his occasional visit, right after she baked bread, kolach and cinnamon buns. Winter heat came, at first, from an ornate nickel trimmed polished black cast iron 'heater' in the middle room. Later it was replaced by a drab 'Heatrola'. The heat got to the bedrooms upstairs through a ceiling louver vent directly above the heater. On winter nights when it was zero outside the upstairs might've got to forty degrees. Those nights brought out Jack Frost and his ice-crusted mosaic crystal paintings on the storm-windowless windows. The cold was offset somewhat by her homemade goose-down featherticks (the Hungarian 'duna' blanket), and 'Gold Medal' flour-sack encased pillows. Sometimes you'd put a stovetop heated sad iron between the sheets. Hot water was heated in the iron steam kettle constantly kept going on the kitchen stove. Unless you were the miner head of the house you got one bath a week. The one-tap cold faucet put out a suspiciously tadpole-tasting, never cold liquid especially in late summer. (See 'The Derrick', below). Summer's Day: Reading 'Superman' and 'Captain Marvel' comic books, (we called 'em funnybooks), on the couch by the black wooden icebox out in the shanty, (see below) ...... Maybe we had a dime or fifteen cents easily got from the uncles to go up to Red Cann's, the local rough and very much undeveloped saloon, three rooms, running card card games in the back, also in a gray weathered vertical board-batten sided company house. It looked very like the saloon in the Molly Maguires movie, even in the early 50s. Fifteen or twenty cents got you a Tastykake and a Moran's lime soda, dipped from an old-style cooler full of ice and icewater, maybe a grape popsicle too. ........ Reading H. G. Wells and A.Conan Doyle by the big open-screened sliding window, hearing the faraway clank and rumble of the Jeanesville breaker and the torpedo 'caps' on the railroad tracks booming every now and then; In the background hearing the big coal trains pass by about every two hours with black, billowing, bituminous coalsmoke and blasting steamwhistle. Smelling the mixed phlox, feather-bush, bergamot, mockorange, daylilies and plum trees outside, and hearing the buzz of the bumblebees and honeybees and horseflies right outside the screen. --- That was the life!Washday-Monday: Visualize: The kitchen of her company house had a slanted floor; It sloped downward to the black-nicked, porcelain-on-iron, single cold water faucet, cupboardless sink. I remember a double set of galvanized, wheel-in stationary tubs with an attached handcrank wringer; Before that modern appliance appeared she used the heavy oak family washtub dragged in from the shanty and a washboard. The boiling hot water was got from the steel kettle and poured into an oval copperplate 'boiler'. She washed them by stirring them with a wooden stick-paddle, then ironed them with a sadiron.
That warm, moist feel of the washday kitchen was most welcome on the frigid January and February days. It was a steambath there in the summer. I remember the froze-solid clothes actually crackling when they bent only half dried on the typical bitter winter washdays. Sometimes the shirts and pants stood up straight! There was never one dirty piece of cloth in that house, and the fresh smell of the air dried bedclothes still returns on occasion. Grandmother Maria Marko died in 1949 after a lifetime of constant, hard work as the wife of a coal miner. It was never the same there again, after she died. She lost three and raised five children. One baby died as a miscarriage after she was picking coal and was chased by a Coal and Iron Cop, one of the Reading Coal Company's hired goons. A story is told of the infant who died in the flu epidemic of 1918: The baby had not yet been baptized, so her husband Ernö, my immigrant Hungarian miner grandfather knocked together a little casket from gathered up boards. Then he carried the casket in his arms a mile and a half to the Hungarian Cemetery in McAdoo, where they buried the baby in a plot near the graveyard wall reserved for such unconsecrated burials. We do not know the location of the grave today. There was not much else they could do in those days ... While she lived she kept a beautiful, safe place for children.
See also similar tales of growing up in Shenandoah, PA.
Hazleton, PA: Center of Commerce and business center of the Mid-Anthracite region. It's the southernmost town of any size in Luzerne County. Pottsville, PA is its counterpart in the South Anthracite and the county seat of Schuylkill County. McAdoo is a 'suburb' of Hazleton, located three miles to the south. For Hazleton's size, and its population was nearly 40,000 when I left the region in the early 1960s (it's 24,000 today), it was and still is far more cosmopolitan than cities many times its size. After all, it was settled and built by the offspring of at least twenty nationalities. ! Now (1999) endangered by a 'progressive' mayor and the usual squabbling factions who seem to want to knock over most of what's left of downtown and blacktop it for parking. Clue: Yank WalMart into town, otherwise here's little left to come into town for. But meanwhile, try to make life and transportation a little easier for the aged of the area who must visit their in-town doctors.
Hazleton Standard~Speaker: The local north Schuylkill County, south Luzerne County daily. Recently, ( ... after about a hundred years! ... ) it went to seven days a week. For a very long time it was the house organ of the Republican right-wing in this corner of the world. Lately it has begun to subscribe to a number of more centrist columnists. It has a good local columnist, (or two), and covers the local news exhaustively. You can't (new in 2004), view the obituaries online unless you subscribe to their view-obits plan*, a modification of the until-then buy the newspaper promotion. That latter seemed to be a reversal of the policy of the previous few years ... which, itself, reversed an earlier policy, which latter reversed the even earlier policy .... !?!?! Such pennypinchers. It's almost comical. Until very recently (April, 2006) their subscription page intro read:
Hazleton Standard Speaker Building Similarly for the Pottsville Republican. Once upon a time that newspaper had a highly informative community-based website. It looks like now, (05/2002), that that website has a number of broken links, and has nowhere near the regional content it used to have.
"They
don't suffer. They can't even speak English.": George
Baer, So --- As a result, we had a one industry colony here, ill prepared to weather the oncoming demise of anthracite coal as a fuel. In spite of this, that multi-ethnically cosmopolitan population, more diverse, energetic and vibrant than in many better prepared places, has managed to resurrect the region so it can begin to thrive now at the the onset of the twenty-first century.
MMI: Mining and Mechanical Institute. The local prep-school. Located right outside of Freeland. It was founded by the Coxe Estate originally to train mining engineers. Not quite Phillips Exeter, it sent quite a few locals off to Lehigh University (and other schools) to become many kinds of Engineer. Lehigh
University (Alma Mater #1) Senape's: One of the best bakeries I've found, no matter where I've traveled. Bar none and five stars! There's something about their bread ... It's on 17th Street, near Church St. (309 North). But now (2003) getting fine and welcome competition from Ms. Tveta Negrea's "Sweet Expectations" shop in the "Auction" bulding at the Hometown Farmer's Market. She specializes in a fine style of Central European breads, strudels and nut- and poppyseed- kolaches. Skiing at Eagle Rock: About twenty years ago a ski lodge opened near the old Green Mountain mines. It's a pleasant place. Recreational facilities like this one may prove to be a great help in resuscitating the local economy. Italian Saints' Days Festivals: Carrying the Saint: I wonder if this celebration still exists, where, and how much of it? As a young man I played cornet in several of the Italian based men's bands in the Hazleton area: Mother of Grace, the American Legion, and Lattimer bands. We were the music for the Italian Saints' Day festivals in area towns. I particularly remember the Shenandoah and Minersville jobs. Of course, close to home we played the St. Mauro's festival in Kelayres and the Blessed Mother's in Hazleton. You'd march in the all day parade all over town it semed, behind selected goodmen of the local parish who lugged a heavy statue of the church's patron saint or the Blessed Mother. It was hot on those July and August days! But the ladies kept every bandsman supplied with lemonade and beer! The idea was for the townspeople to pin dollar-money to ribbons affixed to the statue and make some money for the priest. Then in the cool of the summer evening we played the concert at the block party near the church. Mother
of Grace Men's Band For the block party food menus, go see the pierohi/pierogi, holupki and bean soup entries at the Shenandoah CoalSpeak recipes web site. Unforgettable! The Magyars called holupki töltött kapusta. Shenandoah 'Coalspeak' Recepies Web Site We had a lot of highly talented home-bred musicians, many of whom, and whose sons did professional dance band work and played in mainstream military bands. Some names:Sabatella; Stanziola, (Old John, master musician, organist at the Capitol Theatre ....and his son Bernie, music director at McAdoo High School); Cerasuolo, Sabia, Terraciano, Sabia, Lettiere, Yalo; Ralph Marsicano: Bandleader of the American Legion Band; The Merolas from Pardeesville; Buglio, --- And there was one Irishman, (Burke?, who?), a wonderful clarinetist from Mahanoy City ...... AM RADIO ANNOUNCEMENT: "WAZL, Hazleton, Pennsylvania, 1490 on Your Dial, 'Pennsylvania's Highest City' : Siswein's of Shennandoah presents --- Jolly Jack Robel and his Polka Band from Shennandoar Penn-syl-wania !! " The Knife Sharpener: He came around too, every now and then in an old 40s style panel truck with a small sharpener's machine shop in the back. Name: Tisi Gino. Then there was: Smiling Tony: Who did not belie his name. A mobile drycleaner-tailor from Hazleton. He looked like Caesar Romero, fancied jodhpurs, sported an outfit that looked like a chauffeur's; Cruised around the local small towns in what looked to us like a limousine. Name: Dom Di Cusatis ?
The Black Diamond: This was THE speedy and elegant main line steam locomotive of the Lehigh Valley Railroad. We got to the main New York and Philadelphia routes by taking a local steam shuttle to Lehighton from Hazleton. From there you could go north through what is now Lehigh Gorge State Park to Wilkes-Barre and Buffalo, south and east to Philadelphia and New York City via Allentown and Bethlehem. The locomotive's advent at the Hazleton station was announced by an increasing rumbling. Six foot diameter ground-shaking driver wheels, hissing and clanging and steaming to a stop as it pulled into the station. The engineer and fireman were always inspecting and oiling and adjusting all kinds of amazing steaming machinery. The overall'd engineer and fireman always looked like responsible Dutchmen (Pennsylwanische Deitch), of course. Hear the train pulling into the LVRR Station ...
The Conductor: Wore a black frock coat, brass-buttoned, with an air of eminent command. After all, he was responsible for all the passenger cars behind the tender. Hollering: "Stockton ... Ashmore ... Weatherly ... Maaawk-Chunk! ... Leeee-highton! ... Transfer for points North and South at Lee-highton ... Booo-ooard!" ---(there was no crackly, unintelligible intercom on those cars). There was a novel and entertaining bouquet in those passenger coaches, a mixture of velour upholstery, spittoon tobacco, cigar smoke, steam and oil, cologne and ladies' perfume, all warmed and mixed by the steam heat in the coaches. The mainline trains even had a dining car with attendant mouth-watering cooking smells and silverware and linen! Most of all, there was the intriguing odor of travel, far-off mystery ... adventure and purpose .. the Great Outside World beyond the coalbanks.. Then with a couple jolts and jerks as the train eliminated slack, off we went, out through the ruined mine-stripped landscape past the Hazleton Shaft works and the flumes near Stockton, down through the Hazle/Black Creek Valley, past the Ashmore Yards and Weatherly to Penn Haven Junction where the branch line met the Lehigh River and the main line of the LVRR. The Weatherly station had a candy factory right across the tracks! In the early-mid-1950s there came the harbinger of collapse. The local steam engine shuttle to Lehighton was replaced by the "Budd Car", a shiny, diesel-electric, self-propelled coach similar to modern Light Rail cars. It looked like a small, silvery highway diner of that era. The interior upholstery was coated in plastic. The hint of adventure disappeared with that car, and even more so with the earlier arrival of diesel engines. Still, there remained that fascinating trip through the southern part of the Lehigh Gorge into Mauch Chunk with bright rushing streams tumbling into the Lehigh River from all sides of the canyon. The mainline tracks are gone now, it's all become the Lehigh Gorge State Park. The Hazleton LVRR Station
had its own brass spittoons and the ubiquitous inky smell of old-time
bureaus and official affairs. Although it was classically elegant and
victorian styled, it was torn down in the 1960s by that same usual hometown
breed of unthinking 'civic leadership'. Now the same kind of leadership
wants a big-city kind of municipal airport. Without the tax base to afford
it!. --- To service a growing number of tax exempted, minimum wage paying
industrial parks. Area Industry Solicitation
Central Railroad of New Jersey --
"The Jersey Central". Route maps, terrain, history of Anthracite
Railroading. Its routes paralleled those of the LVRR in many cases. A
good series of pictures of the Lehigh Gorge transit. Lehigh
River Watershed
DowndaValley: This might have been one of several, Quakake-Tuscarora, Conyngham, or the Ringtown/Catawissa Valley, depending where you were situated on the sprawling plateau of Spring Mountain. That high rise of eastern Pennsylvania Appalachians (see topographical links at left), runs about 25 miles southwest to northeast and about 10 miles across, although it is extended by many spur outcrops. Toward the northeast, past Buck Mountain, it merges into the Pocono highlands, broken at last by the deep Lehigh River gorge past Weatherly. The Dutchmen, (Pennsylvania Dutch) tended their farms in the valleys; See some Pennsylwanische Deitch links at the left hand side of the page. There were no easily reachable coal seams down there in the valleys, and the up-down alternation of pleasant, well tended farmland to devastated, stark, bleak coalregion provided an unending, alternating variety of curious beauty to local journeys. da Lake: Lakeside/Lakewood Amusement Park and Polka Ballroom, down da farms near Barnesville. This place was still a big going thing in the 1950s, '60s and on through part of the '70s for polkas on Saturday Night. They held the Bavarian Festival there for quite a while in the '70s, maybe later, and almost every summer Sunday saw a big local church festival. It had a great wooden rolley-coaster, and a wet, mildewey tunnel of love. The ballroom finally burned down completely a few months ago, (Summer, 1998). The settlement of the regional valleys preceded the development of the coal fields. The earliest settlers of Quakake Valley were Pennsylvania Dutch who probably reached here in the late 1700s. See a few links below to the Packer Cemetery at St. Matthew's Church and some pictures of that area. East
Union Township (with Klein)
*Starring Sean Connery as Kehoe, Richard Harris as McParland, Samantha Eggar as the coalminer's daughter love interest. *In the Movie 'The Molly Maguires', made nearby at Eckley, PA in the late 1960s; A number of the Molly leaders were brought to a rigged trial by Franklin Gowen, later the CEO of the Philadelphia and Reading Coal and Iron Co.. They were convicted and hanged. At first the idea didn't really pan out the way the town fathers had expected. Although the memorial is impressive and the town was renamed, not too many tourists immediately came to spend money. A comment made by one of the councilmen was: "All we got for our money was one big gravestone and a dead Indian ....." At one time (turn of the 20th century), Mauch Chunk was one of the eastern seaboard's resort towns. The rugged locale was called 'The Switzerland of America'. A famous vacationers' hotel was located at the nearby Glen Onoko which was serviced by regularly scheduled trains of the Lehigh Valley Railroad. (Click a few of the cameras on this web site of excellent photographs). Today (2003), the town again does a thriving tourist business.
Lehigh Township
Mayflower: A delicate pink-white flower, gone by May, the Trailing Arbutus. This was the first flower to appear in the cold March early Spring. We found it under the brown dry winter leaves in certain places. A rare thing with a delicate perfume. See more local flora here.
Huckleberries: Blueberries. The low blues are in full flower now, (July 1998, June 2002), until about the end of July. Then out come the 'swampers', the bigger, less tasty high bush berries. The best spot for these was in a mountaintop swamp near the western end of Spring Mountain, where it looks down into the Ringtown/Brandonville/Catawissa Valley. Here was the best place to see the cloud shadows rolling. There were hovering hawks and buzzards there, and an absolute stillness except for the occasional 'pweeeet' of a woodthrush and the sigh of the wind.
Mushrooms -- We hunted these: Pupinki: (Poo-pink-eee). (Polish name for) a tasty mushroom; Otherwise called 'Stumper' because they grew out of decaying oak stumps and the fallen trees going back to the earth. Looks very much like "Boletus Edulis". The best month for finding them is October. Holubinki: 'Gray-Topper' Mushroom; Summer months. (Also Polish named). Spongers: A kind of boletus (probable) mushroom that likes to grow on the reforesting hills of mine waste. Sheepshead and 'Piney' mushroooms too, but usually only the Italians ate those. The mushroom caches, or 'kootches', (see huckleberries), were also kept secret from all but your best woods-buddies.
Ice-Sign: You put one of these in the window on iceman day. It had the numerals '25', '50', '75', '100' on it, one number at each of the four corners which told the iceman how many pounds you wanted him to bring in for the icebox. You turned it so that the desired amount was the rightside up one. Rag-Man: No mere garbage man here. He came along down the alleys in a rattly old truck, dinging on an iron noisemaker, and took every kind of useful scrap. Banged on a triangle of the kind used to sound a ranch-hand dinner alarm. This was 1940s-50s recycling. Ash-Man: Different from the garbage man. He came in a truck once a week in the summer, more in the winter to pick up the buckets and tubs of furnace and coal stove anthracite coal ashes. The whole business of the homeowner was a bit more strenuous than merely taking out the garbage. While not overly heavy for an adult, the tubs posed a problem for the little folk. The first thing you did was to lay a light coating of ashes over the always slippery backyard path in the winter. The gritty ash did almost as good a job as modern snow-melter. Then you lugged one to ten buckets of the stuff out to the back alley fence for pickup. Hucksters: Name given loosely to the grocers from the bigger towns who visited the smaller patches in small trucks fixed up like mobile grocery stores. They hollered out the truck windows as they passed down the street: "Apples ... Peaches, Apples, Pears ... " Usually, depending on their mood, they were good for a cookie or piece of baloney treat for the little kids. Some names: Goodman, (John was the soft hearted one of the two brothers, John and Jack), McDonald, and Bresky, all of McAdoo. There were some now almost forgotten others too ('The Boys', Zukovich?, O'Lear?). Mine Fires and Dumps: No recycling ever took place here. Every town had its own abandoned strippin' hole right nearby to dump the garbage in. The region had and still has a great abundance of unfilled holes in the ground, some hundreds of feet deep, just waiting for dumping. Such dumping led to rats, the childhood sport of rat-shootin', and mine fires because many of these holes gave off into a coal outcrop. Some of these fires were not extinguishable and when they burned deep under the towns they spewed poison gases into cellars. The thriving mining town of Centralia was finally abandoned because of this kind of unextinguishable mine fire.
The place has come from one extreme to the other. Although one finds many of the side roads of the region still littered by the occasional bedspring, mattress, refrigerator, one cannot get easy access to municipal waste disposal. You have to hire a local hauler, one with the connections or license to do trash hauling. This is very strange but not untypical of the region. Most metropolitan municipalities fund a site where the homeowner can dispose of the odd pickup truck load of backyard pruning, cans of old oil, chemicals, etc. Recently, for disposal of a bit of backyard clippings we were actually advised, sotto voce, to "Find some old back road in the woods ..." Andoshen, PA: Wordplay on Shenandoah, PA. One of the best books, (a novel, and hard to find) about life in the Region. It was written by Darryl Ponicsan, a Shenandoah native who wrote the screenplay for the movies 'Cinderella Liberty' and 'The Last Detail'.John O'Hara: Nothing dealing with McAdoo/Hazleton here. O'Hara did not much mention or write about our kind of folk or the heavy, dangerous work that sustained the region. A Pottsville, PA, native, he was the son of a prominent doctor. Although born of Irish stock, he devoted his writing career to chronicling the manners/mores of the WASP owner class in exhaustive detail. Master of a certain kind of preppie-stylized dialog, eternal outsider looking in, he wrote several good reads, 'Appointment in Samarra' being his best. See, (here), a critical and incisive essay on O'Hara's strivings and efforts. It is a curious thing that exemplary authors John Updike, Conrad Richter and O'Hara were born and lived within 30 miles of one another.
A good and Christian man, as in: "The rights and interests of the laboring man will be protected and cared for not by our labor agitators, but by the Christian men to whom God in his infinite wisdom has given control of property interests of the country, and upon the successful management of which so much remains." These heady and insufferable words were spoken by George F. Baer (Railroad Industrialist), in an open letter to the press in August 1902 during the great Miners' Strike. An associate of J. P. Morgan, he was an example of the typical greedy, laissez-faire capitalist of that time, and time present. The main reason things are a little better now for the average working man is the general rise in prosperity of all because of the Government-paid-for advancements in the technology of the Twentieth Century. A second is perhaps because of the fear struck into the hearts of their kind by Franklin Delano Roosevelt and his cousin Theodore Roosevelt, by way of of the Labor Laws these two great Presidents enacted. These worthy Christian men built their empires and their grand palaces in places like Manhattan, Philadelphia and Newport on the backs of and from the sweat of the population discussed in this essay The Mine Types: Slope: Mine shaft that goes down at an angle, not vertically; Photo . Shaft: Vertical mine; Photo. Drift: Mine entered horizontally, like the western gold mines or the Ashland, PA Tourist Mine. Not many drift mines exist in the Anthracite Coal Region. The coal lies at all angles, bent up inside the Appalachians. There are very few valley mines. Strip-Mining: Easiest, latter day, most ruinous to the land. Done by excavating a big hole in the ground and piling the removed dirt and rocks nearby. Now all the modern mine sites call this latter overburden; Now they piously say that it's nicely piled nearby for later reclamation. The work is usually done by draglines and yookies (Euclid Company heavy duty dump trucks). Note also the mine-wasted areas on the several topographical maps and the pictures on this web site. Euclid Style
Dump Trucks We had a big dragline at Audenreid #5 in the mid '50s, a walker; So-called because it maneuvered itself into position by a slow side to side 'walking' motion. Climbing to the top of the dragline was one helluva scary experience.
The Mine-Gases: Black Damp: Carbon Dioxide; Non-explosive but suffocating. White Damp: Carbon Monoxide; Poisonous and stealthy. Fire Damp: Methane. Explosive and flammable.
MineNumbers: (Near the home town): All the local coal-works had numbers, Audenreid Slope #4, Honeybrook Slopes #1 and #2, Audenreid #5, Jeanesville #1. The Hazleton Shaft Colliery was just called The Shaft. The descent into Hazleton from the south, on Rte. 309 is called the #6 Hill. These numbers repeated themselves over and over depending on your locale. The thousands of bootleg holes didn't rate numbers. Bootleg
Mining Breakers: Coal processing plants. Collieries. The coal went in at the top, was sent down through a series of shakers, grinding mills and screens, then was loaded into the railroad gondolas at the bottom. The Jeanesville Bank: Probably the biggest single coal bank, (mountainous pile of mine refuse) in the entire Anthracite Region; Certainly the highest. It rose about 200-300 feet higher than the high elevation of the Spring Mountain plateau (there almost 1900 feet above sea level). Accumulated mine tailings from about 1860 or so were pulled up there by a dragline ... They took about 100 feet off the top back in the '50's, '60's. Today it's a good place for1. 'Off-roading', 2. Hunting crystals (quartz crystal) and selfer diamonds, (sulfur diamonds). 3. Gunnery. 4. Dumping. This provides targets for gunnery. When you climb the bank you can see 40 miles in all directions on a clear day. The Jeansville works fell idle shortly after WWII.Audenreid, Beaver Brook, Silver Brook, etc, Banks: Every coal works had its bank of black slate, bad coal and rock refuse. Audenreid's is just about gone. So is most of the whole town. It made way for latter-day stripping (strip-mining), when deep mining became unprofitable. Audenreid was a little original coal field town, larger than a patch, of about fifty homes up through the 1960s. Now it's a forlorn cluster of a few dilapidated houses mixed with prefab trailers clustered along Rte. 309 between McAdoo and Beaver Brook. Never much to look at, that whole stretch has got far worse recently. It's a trail of ruined mining equipment, cluttered, rusted-out machinery, and the broken, charred timbers of old coal works. Sulfur Diamonds: ... Pyritic crystals of sulfur, found among the slate and coal refuse on the coalbanks. The bigger ones make pretty paperweights. Also See : Pyrite - A hard, heavy, shiny, yellow mineral, FeS2 or iron disulfide, generally in cubic crystals. Also called iron pyrites, fool's gold, sulfur balls. Iron pyrite is the most common sulfide found in coal mines. 'Sulfur Water': Mine acid polluted water. See text directly below taken from HYDROLOGY OF THE ANTHRACITE REGION, part of LEHIGH RIVER MINE DRAINAGE ASSESSMENT AND ABATEMENT PLAN TO MITIGATE THE MINE DRAINAGE IMPACTS TO THE LEHIGH RIVER WATERSHED. A Project of Wildlands Conservancy and Parkland High Schools Lehigh RiverWatch May 2000
Pickin' Coal: There was still a lot of good coal in those refuse banks. A part time job for many families was to go pick it to supplement the household's year-round coal supply. Every house was heated by coal until about the mid 40s. You'd rumble the heavy steel-wheel'd, wooden barrow out of the shanty, then be off on a several mile trek to favored sites. Load up a few burlap sacks of good chunk-coal and wheel it back to the coal pile in the back yard ... There was very little need for health spa workouts in those days ... Then you'd crack the lump coal to stove size, pea or chestnut, at your leisure. The chink-chink-chink of old, derelict carpenter's hammer on coal chunk was a familiar back alley sound. In the earlier days the coal operators did not much care for this practice. So they set their Coal and Iron Police, (Reading Coal & Iron Company hired rentacops) on the women and children coal-pickers. More Coalpickers, here and here ... The economics of Cheap Labor Capital. Lokie: A miniature locomotive. Not just the steam train at the Ashland mine tourist site. The name was generally used to denote any small switch engine type locomotive around the breakers. No deep throated whistle like the mainline steam engines, they sounded a characteristic PEEP! Nabby, Navvy: Railroad repair two man self propelled handcart. Railroad Torpedo Caps: Explosive devices like blasting caps, placed on the steel rails that exploded like a cherry bomb firecracker when run over by train wheels. They did not disturb the heavy locomotive and were used for temporary warning signals. Carbide Lamp: Miner's lamp. The carbide mixed with the water in the lamp reservoir made acetylene gas. The gas ignited when the lamp's reflector-flint was struck by a cigarette lighter type roller. It was kept in the shanty, along with the big wooden washtub. The washtub was used for bathing by the miner and his family. It was drug into the kitchen in cold weather for baths where the hot water came from the heavy steel kettle kept boiling on the coalstove. Checkai, Chekai: STOP! (Polish derivation?) See also: sprag. An exclamation, derived from stopping the coal cars pulled up the breaker ramp. I watched this operation many a day from the West Grant Street Elementary School which looked out onto the Audenreid #4 Slope.. I still cannot smell grade school chalky blackboard erasers without seeing the play of white snow on black slate looking out on winter days at that breaker. Set off a shot: Blast coal loose, underground. In the West Grant Street Grade School, as a kid: You'd be half dozing over your schoolbook, then the building would shake. You'd hear a muffled BOOM a few seconds later. It might be one of your mother's cousints at work half a mile away, and five hunded feet down. From the second storey classrooms of the school you also had a good view of the coalcars going up and down the ramp at Audenreid #4 Breaker. Dooley Caps: As in dooley-boxes. Blasting caps used with dynamite The name derived from dualin, (derivation recently supplied by "Coal Miner's Son" and the "Librarian" at the Coalcracker Message Board); Used to set off the high explosive dynamite for mine shots (blasting). The packing crates for these were well made wooden containers with dovetailed fitting at the edges. The inside of the grandmother's boodie (outhouse), was paneled in these taken-apart crates. Made by Atlas Powder, the picture of Atlas with a club across his shoulder stamped on each box, is forever engraved on my mind. Steam Whistles: They sounded the start-work and change of shifts at the several nearby collieries. Each breaker had it's own characteristic blast that could be heard for miles.Molly Maguires: Speaking of dynamite, John (Black Jack) Kehoe, the leader of that band of freedom fighters and early Labor Revolutionaries roamed near McAdoo, near the Honeybrook #1 patch and Audenreid. After a heavily rigged trial orchestrated by Franklin Gowen, later CEO of the Philadelphia and Reading Coal and Iron Co., several of these brave souls were hung by the neck at Pottsville and Mauch Chunk, now Jim Thorpe, PA. They were sold out by the Ulsterian immigrant Pinkerton spy and informer, James McParlan(d) aka James McKenna. The latter, though also an immigrant, was a toady and fawning lackey to the industrial ruling classes. After the Mollies' executions he was later reported to have departed the Coal Region to parts west. Sometime later Gowen shot and killed himself in a hotel room in Washington DC. From an article in the Times-News Link at the left side of this page: (By Marigrace Heyer, Coalcracker writer) JIM THORPE, PA. - Their wives and families huddled on the steps outside the Carbon County Prison waiting for word that the four men were dead. They had said goodbye to them the night before in their cells ... ......
In his 'Hard Coal Dockets' published in 1994, Carbon County Judge John
P. Lavelle says: "Historians feel the Molly Maguire trials were a surrender
of state sovereignty. A private corporation initiated the investigation
through a private detective agency. A private police force arrested the
alleged defenders, and private attorneys for the coal companies prosecuted
them. The state provided only the courtroom and the gallows." One of several comprehensive lists of Molly Maguires Links.
Vanished Patch-Towns: In the McAdoo area they were: Hunky-Dory, Honeybrook, Green Mountain, Clabber Row, Yorktown, Slackersville, Sawmill, even Audenreid which in the early '50s was still a thriving community of several score homes. Few of these are shown on today's road maps, but see the Patch Town Map, the Munsell Schuylkill Co. History Table of Contents, and several topographical maps of the area, all of which are linked at left and below. These patch towns were small, early, sometimes original settlements grouped around their own local coal breaker. All of them are presently gone back to woods or have been excavated to great stripping holes in the ground. Honeybrook #1 and #2 existed only as immense strippings by the 1940s. A picture of these can be seen on this site's magnified topographical map as a great depression a little north of Kelayres. The Honeybrook strippings are now filled in (03/2000) via an influx of US Taxpayer money. Even back in the '40s and early '50s all that remained of Slackersville was a sandlot baseball field, in the scrub woods along the tracks of the LVRR between Beaver Brook and Hazleton. The site of Yorktown was a stripping at the south end of Beaver Brook near the old company store. A place called Hunky Dory (#8) was the farthest from McAdoo. Locally it denoted a 'way far off mine in the boondocks. The farther off Sawmill-Green Mountain area is remote and hard to get to now; It's reachable only by putting a lot of stress on a four wheel drive vehicle. Once upon a time it was the site of a thriving coal works. Even now it has a half ruined county bridge, deep in the woods across the Catawissa Creek on what used to be the main road, now hardly passable, between McAdoo and Sheppton. Map:
The Eastern Mid-Anthracite Coal Fields-Towns, Roads and Geology World War II was over. Cleaner gas and oil heat became more competitive than coal, even in the coal towns. The Co |