Because I wanted to be sure that the guy wires did not trip any deer, of which there are many who live near the N3RR QTH, and because I didn't want to worry about running into the guy wires with the lawn mower, I decided on 6 foot elevated guy anchors.


    As with the other mechanical design criteria, I provided this requirement to a Maryland PE and he designed my guy anchor subsystem. The final guy anchor design resulted in needing three 10'8" I-beams, model 8I-23 (8 inch face, weighing 23 pounds per linear foot) with a 1/2 inch thick steel plate welded to the base of it (which will be in concrete) and 6'2" protruding out of the concrete.

    The hole into which the guy anchor would be installed, then filled with concrete, was specified as 3' x 2' x 4.5' deep. After excavation, this resulted in a hole which would contain approximately 1.5 cu yds of concrete.

    The top of the I-Beam included an attachment plate on which ROHN EP-2534-3 twin equalizer plates will be attached to each guy anchor.


    I took the PE design, drew procurement drawings, and sent them with a RFQ (Request for Quote) to three local steel fabricators. I met with each company, reviewed their sample work, contacted several of their customer referrals and ultimately selected the lowest bidder. This competitive bid process produced the best quality product I could have expected. The final guy anchors, as delivered, met all of my expectations, and then some. By the way, each of these guy anchors weighed in excess of 300 pounds!! Notice the rusty color of the guy anchors. This is due to the specification requirement of two coats of red oxide primer being applied by the fabrication vendor.


    I contracted with a back-hoe operator who dug all three of the guy anchor holes and the tower base hole at the same time. It took two of us to carry these I-Beam assemblies to each hole. It took several more days of work to erect each guy anchor in the hole and, using rebar inside the hole, "plumbing" each guy anchor and guying each of them in place awaiting the concrete. That's Ed, K3IXD, supervising my work!

    Once the concrete was poured (and using a concrete vibrator to ensure no air pockets in the concrete), we let it cure for two weeks before attempting to de-install the temporary rope guys.

    Rust Prevention

    After we removed the temporary guys, the next step was to ensure that the junction between the red oxide-coated steel I-Beam and the concrete would not be a source of water infiltration and rusting of the steel anchor. Using several commercial products, the following sequence was used as the rust-prevention application for the guy anchors:

    1. Paint two coats of Rust-oleum "Stops Rust" Oil-based enamel paint (color choice)
    2. Caulk-on GE Silicone II Concrete and Masonry Sealant.

    The result looks like this.

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